The inverter has the safety features such as over input voltage shut off, low input voltage shut off, low input voltage alarm, low voltage turn-off resume, over heating shut off, overload shut off, short circuit protection.The unit is not.
If you would like contact me and I will send you to a very good sight with all the info you will ever need for car amplifire installation. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Apr 21, 2008 .
Watts and volt-amperes are totally different and sometimes inverter manufacturers don't tell about the difference. A basic rule of thumb is to take whatever the inverter is rated for and knock a quarter off. So, in your case it would be best to assume a maximum rating of 1500 watts. Also, inductive loads like drillers (electric motors) usually have a start-up current 3 to 8 times the rated operating current. Meaning that 100 watt driller will draw 300 watts to start up. So, if you use an electric motor rated at 700 watts, its startup load would be 2100 watts or even more and thus trigger the inverter overload switch.
And I have run a coffee maker from it. It takes a lot of juice, but I've got dual batteries and solar and I just felt like seeing what it could do. Here is a good video by a guy who bought your inverter, LOL. To answer one of the implied questions you had about standby current consumption, yes, the larger the rating the larger the standby current. To understand why, let's look into how and inverter works.
LUP indicates battery voltage is low, so firstly make sure: 1. You 12V battery is good, it's large enough a minimum of 75AH and probably much larger is recommended and it's fully charged. Verify you are using the correct size copper wires from battery to the Inverter DC INPUT(s). If you keep wire short the wire size can be smaller, but if the DC input wires are longer then you will need to use thicker copper wires. At MAx load you would be taking 250 AMP from battery, so for a 5% Volatge drop of.6 V for a 10 ft length of cables from battery to Inverter you would need to use a 1AWG copper cable. OLP is a overload condition, which means you may have to many high powered AC powered things connected to the Inverters AC outlets or maybe something that has large start up surge, ie devices large electric motors.
Use larger guage wire (12ga is 20amp residential requirement, 14ga is 15amp residential requirement) for the longer runs. This inverter is not designed for a permanent install, its not intended to be run continuously. There are inverters designed for this, you can find an idea of product selection at rv suppliers, alternative energy shops, etc. Jun 24, 2010 . You should go with a 4 guage power wire kit. If your amp is going in and out at high volume than that is your problem. 8 guage will work but, if you want the proper current which is your power from your battery, going to your amp than I would recomend the 4 guage amp install kit or just the main power wire coming from your battery.
• 843 Answers SOURCE: DO NOT DO THIS! If I understand you correctly you want to have three ways to have 110 power in your motor home--- (1)Vehicle 12V to inverter to main panel. (2)Generator to main panel. (3)plug the main panel into 110V. If any two of these are connected at the same time and they are both live, somethings going to blow. That's because with AC, the two sources must be synchronized in their cycles very precisely.
Or it could be all due to a faulty Inverter. Oct 22, 2016 . Are you wanting to install circuit breakers on the DC (battery) side? If so, you won't need them to protect the unit as it is already fused. But, it would be a good idea to install them as close to the battery so that if a wiring fault develops in te cable going to the inverter, it would be protected as well. For the AC side, breakers are sized according to the wire size, not the capacity of the inverter. But, you can always use a smaller size if you want to try and protect the inverter from overloads as well.
Hope this helps you. Aug 04, 2011 .
I figured that with the generator I don't have to modify the trailer I can just plug shore power cable into it. I can run it in the morning to make a pot of coffee, run it during the day for a few hours to charge the battery, phones and laptops.
Hi All, I am going dry camping this weekend and wanted to outfit my 2010 Jayco 1207 with an inverter for some minor power uses. I went to Canadian Tire as they had a 1000W MSW inverter on for 89.99$. While I was there I noticed a 3000W MSW inverter fro 199.99. Needles to say I bought the 3000W inverter and am now worried that I made the wrong decision. First let me say that all expect to use this for is to charge a laptop or cell phone and run a 600W coffee maker in the morning. I know that I have more than enough power in this unit, but figured it was better to have it and not need it, that to need it and not have it.
PI-2000 $1 Watt 12 Volt Power Inverter -This heavy duty inverter plugs directly to a 12 Volt DC battery to power large appliances, air conditioners, heavy duty power tools and many other electronics in your vehicle, or on a free standing 12V battery! -Incandescent light, power tools, 32'TV, fridge (16 cu ft),8 gallon vacuum cleaner, 1000W microwave oven. Features -2000 watts continuous power -4000 watts peak power -Provides 16.7 Amps -DC input voltage: 10.5-15V -Anodized aluminum case provides durability -Built-in Cooling Fan -Internal, Replaceable 30 Amp spade-type Fuses -3 3 Prong 120 volt AC outlet -Digital Amp~Wattage display Helps monitor overloads -Overload Indicator -Power ON/OFF Switch -Free 100ft Range Wireless Remote -3 FT Battery Cables Included.
If the specifications aren't clearly spelled out, and your unit is not manufactured by a reputable company all bets are off. Ray charles genius and friends. The smartest thing you could do is return it and buy from a reputable manufacturer, Magnum energy is a good one but there are others.
Assuming you have a 12VDC In 120V AC out 3000W inverter. LUP indicates battery voltage is low, so firstly make sure: 1. You 12V battery is good, it's large enough a minimum of 75AH and probably much larger is recommended and it's fully charged. Verify you are using the correct size copper wires from battery to the Inverter DC INPUT(s).
It isn't much louder than an RV generator so I don't think it will be to disruptive to the neighbors. Also, now I have a generator that I can use for other things around the house. I figure that the next thing I will ad is the solar for battery charging, this will cut down on me having to run the generator.
Do not run an electric coffee maker or any heat producing appliance off your battery. Use your stove to make coffee or the campfire. At most you need a 750 watt inverter and then you will be oversized for a laptop and cell phone. First of all, a true 3000W inverter would cost a lot more than $200. One indication is the size of the wire or terminals on the unit. They would have to be huge to support 200A+.
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Your inverter is rated at 1000 watts, which is a bit over 8 amps of AC current. Use a 10 amp circuit breaker, and don't use smaller than 16ga wire for short distances.
Hope someone can help. No way you should be needing a 3000W inverter. No way you should use a 3000 watt inverter. Using an oversized inverter will needlessly draw power from the battery. Be aware that 100 watts of power used is 1 amp of battery power used. You have not said what size battery you have but most likely I am going to guess either a group 24 or 27, which means you only have 40-45 amps of battery power that you can use before you start damaging your battery.
My concerns are as follows: 1) I will be currently running this off of a single Marine Deep cycle battery. Is this wattage to high for one battery? Will it drain my battery faster than if I had a 2000W or 1000W model even though I will not be using near its rated wattage? Or will it only drain the battery equivalent to the wattage that I am using? 2) There are two sets of +/- terminals on the back, and the instructions and internet info is lacking. How should I wire it? Positive on one side negative on the other or both positive and negative on the same side?
Then I will upgrade the batteries. From what everyone is telling me and the research that I have done, there really is no sense having an inverter running off of 1 marine deep cycle battery. After I upgrade the battery to most likely some 6V golf cart batteries, I will be able to run a larger inverter, which I think would be more useful. After it is all said and done, having already bought the generator, I will still have a way to charge the batteries for extended dry trips. Not looking forward to the noise but in the end I think it was the best decision for now.
Basically, the inverter takes your 12VDC and runs it through a 'inverting' circuit, that makes it capable of running through a step-up transformer, as transformers only work with AC. The higher capacity units have larger transformers as well as other components, which loosely translates to larger losses, namely as heat which costs electricity! Thanks for all the information everyone, it is was very helpful. I did buy a the Honda generator yesterday so that will be my power source when boon docking for now. My thought was that if I get the generator first then I can start working on the inverter system as I can afford it. The cost of a decent inverter was double the generator ( I bought it used), so for now I will have power at least.
If you keep wire short the wire size can be smaller, but if the DC input wires are longer then you will need to use thicker copper wires. At MAx load you would be taking 250 AMP from battery, so for a 5% Volatge drop of.6 V for a 10 ft length of cables from battery to Inverter you would need to use a 1AWG copper cable. OLP is a overload condition, which means you may have to many high powered AC powered things connected to the Inverters AC outlets or maybe something that has large start up surge, ie devices large electric motors. Or it could be all due to a faulty Inverter. Posted on Dec 07, 2016. With inverters and generators, the power rating is usually off by about a quarter.
The utility company connects their power plants together on the grid only with the aid of precise controls. But the really serious problem is the same reason they invented transfers switches for home generators -- if you were connected to (3) and the power went out, and you connected (1) or (2) without disconnecting the dead (3), you will backfeed power to the line outside and you just might kill the lineman who is trying to fix the power outage. Posted on May 20, 2010. Assuming you have a 12VDC In 120V AC out 3000W inverter.
If you're dead set on trying your Chinese toy wire it with heavy 0 gauge or larger battery cable and a 150A to 200A circuit breaker or fuse rated for DC. If something goes south at least you won't burn the trailer down. You can measure the standby power consumption with an ammeter if you're curious as to the efficiency hit you're taking. The streets everything is borrowed lyrics. I have a 600W Magnum 612 that draws about 0.7A in search mode as a point of reference.
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3) I plan on installing this under one of the benches that will be designated strictly for the inverter, with #1 wire from the battery to the inverter (approx 3.5') and fused at 250A. Will this be a safe location? I know that watts/V=A so 2500W/12Vdc = 208A, what I don't know is what this will increase to on #1 wire. I am assuming that 250A would be a good size, am I correct? I plan on gearing up a relay on the converter power supply in the future so that the converter is disconnected when the inverter is turned on, and the installing a 30A plug outside so I can just plug my shore power in there. This will happen down the road. For this weekend there is no risk of having shore power and the inverter on I just want to get it installed.